Wine Advocate
par Robert Parker le 30/04/2004
Revealing enormous richness, flesh, and succulence, the 2003 Lafite Rothschild is one of the candidates for “wine of the vintage.” A blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot (the Merlot was harvested between September 8 - 12, and the Cabernet Sauvignon between September 15 - 24), it possesses ethereal richness as well as perfume. Yields were a low 34 hectoliters per hectare, there is just under 13% natural alcohol, and the pH level is frightfully high at 3.9 with a total acidity of only 2.9. These figures are nearly identical to such ripe, concentrated vintages as 1982 and 1959. Inky/ruby/purple-colored with a spectacular, ripe perfume of black fruits, cedar, Asian soy, and balsamic vinegar, it exhibits massive richness yet is remarkably fresh and lively on the palate for such an unctuous effort (amazing levels of glycerin). In that sense, it is atypical, but like the 1982, I suspect the 2003 will become more delineated as the tannin emerges over the next 1-2 years. An amazing textural impression left me scratching my head as I have never tasted a Lafite Rothschild quite like this. This is one first-growth worth mortgaging the house for! Anticipated maturity: 2010-2035.