Wine Advocate
byRobert Parkerthe4/1/1996
When Mouton-Rothschild gets everything right it is unquestionably a candidate for the wine of the vintage. Mouton did indeed hit the bull's eye in 1995, making the greatest wine produced at this estate since the legendary duo of 1982 and 1986. The harvest began on September 18 and finished on September 28. A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc, the 1995 appears to be one of those sensational Moutons made from extraordinarily ripe Cabernet Sauvignon, the key at this estate to wines of remarkable volume and mass. It offers a profoundly deep purple color, followed by a knock-out bouquet of jammy blackcurrants, coconut, coffeecake, and smoke. This staggeringly rich, low acid Mouton is enormously rich and chewy, with layers of concentrated fruit, in addition to being extremely pure, exceptionally concentrated, and amazingly silky and sweet. According to cellarmaster Michel Bosq, the 1995's tannin level is similar to such great Moutons as 1986, 1982, and 1961. To put this effort into another context, consider what readers might taste if there were a hypothetical blend of 50% of the 1982, 25% of the 1986, and 25% of the 1985. Such a blend might provide an inkling of just what Mouton has achieved in 1995. Mouton-Rothschild has a tendency to be extremely showy for three or four years and then go into a shell (the 1982 and 1986, after their flamboyant early years, are now forbiddingly backward). My instincts suggest this wine will be utterly profound for another 5-6 years and then shut down for about 20 years thereafter. It is certainly a Mouton that will last for 30 years.