Wine Advocate
par Robert Parker le 30/04/2009
The 2008 Ausone tasted much more forward and softer than most Ausones do at this stage, which is remarkable considering the extremely late harvest and slow, late malolactics. Nevertheless, it is a packed and stacked St.-Emilion displaying an inky/blue/purple color, unreal fruit density, and that liquid mineral component that comes from this steep, limestone vineyard. The wine possesses dense fruit, full-bodied power, remarkably sweet tannins, and more elevated acidity than in such years as 2000, 2001, 2003, 2005, and 2006. The acidity seems low because of the wealth and density of the fruit. Everything is incredibly pure, and the cascade of blue and black fruits interwoven with notions of crushed rocks, flowers, and forest floor is as provocative as it is grand. I can conceive of drinking this Ausone with some degree of complexity in less than ten years, which may be considered sacre bleu by the proprietor since many of his wines will last 50-100 years where well-stored. Yields were a ridiculously low 20 hectoliters per hectare, and the grapes were harvested in mid to late October.
Once again, Alain Vauthier has produced a wine that flirts with perfection. As I stated in my bottled 2006 Bordeaux report, over the last decade no proprietor has produced as many virtually perfect wines as Vauthier.