The World of Fine Wines
byMichael Schusterthe5/13/2020
Dense in fine fruit and subtle gravel aromas, very persistent to smell; full-bodied,
concentrated wine, fresh in acidity, firmly tannic; deep and sweet and refined in flavor,
immediately mouthcoating with a gentle (alcohol) warmth, very complex and tenacious
to taste, a wine of great scope and considerable power and very fine, sweetly scented length,
all within a particularly fine-textured tannin. Top-quality wine, no question, but of a very
different character, and with rather different virtues, from the Haut-Brion that used to be
12.5%–13.5% ABV. And it is worth noting that. The class is still there, but it is a changed
expression, that of a now-changed (because of the warming climate) terroir, with the resultant wine remaining impressive, but less easily drinkable, less graceful, subtly aromatic and refreshing. Than it used to be.