Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
byIan D'Agatathe6/30/2013
(78% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 2% petit verdot; 5.5 g/l total acidity, 75 IPT; 13.5% alcohol; 38 h/h yield): Pretty, medium ruby-red. Aromas of raspberry, cocoa powder and mint are lifted by a penetrating violet note. Intensely flavored, juicy and tight, with brisk acidity extending the red and dark fruit and minerals on the bright, very well-delineated finish. A note of sweet blackcurrant lingers impressively. This has excellent energy without coming across as green, but seems less strict to me than the 2011. Interestingly, technical director Vincent Millet told me that the petit verdot was planted partly in 1939 and that these old vines love water stress (they were harvested on October 15, yielding just 15 h/h). In contrast, some of the young cabernet sauvignon vines didn't make it, which explains the lowest proportion of cabernet sauvignon (along with 2011) in the Calon-Segur blend in some years (2008 had 75%). Millet thinks that the 2012 Calon is livelier than the 2011 (which had a similar pH but lower total acidity); he believes the '11 will be ready to drink sooner than 2012. I'm not so sure, as I find this 2012's sweetly fruity personality hard to resist already.