Wine Advocate
byRobert Parkerthe4/28/2010
The prodigious 2009 l’Evangile may be the greatest
wine made at this estate during my 30+ years of
tasting Bordeaux. Yields were 39 hectoliters per
hectare, and the harvest was relatively long, with
everything being picked at perfect maturity between
September 11 and October 7. The estate is doing
malolactic in barrel (a la Burgundy), and the final blend
(95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc) achieved 14.5%
natural alcohol. Amazingly, this cuvee is aged in 100%
new oak barrels, yet no oak is present in the aromas
or flavors. Readers should think of it as a better, richer,
fuller, more alcoholic version of the 1982 l’Evangile.
Dense, full-bodied, and opaque purple-hued, it boasts
an extraordinary bouquet of spring flowers,
blueberries, blackberries, and boysenberries. A blue
and black mountain fruit character suggests coolness,
but an intensity and voluptuous texture present the
paradox of 2009. The wine has all the characteristics
of a hot vintage in terms of power, texture, and
richness as well as elements of a cool vintage in its
precision, elegance, freshness, and vibrancy. Make no
mistake about it, this is an enormous wine that is
incredible to taste. Frankly, I could have drunk the
entire barrel sample if it hadn’t been my first
appointment of the day (at 8:15 a.m.)! This wine
should drink well for 30-40 years. Bravo! (Tasted
once.) Drink 2010-2050. (96-100*) points